Circa 1950 Emerald & Diamond Navette Ring

Dating to circa 1950, this Midcentury ring features a .90-carat emerald-cut natural emerald, bezel-set in 18KT yellow gold against an elaborate platinum and diamond surround. The diamonds total approximately 1.13 carats, with SI2-I1 clarity and G-H color.

The emerald sits at the center of an elongated navette-shaped gallery, framed by 26 bead-set old European and single-cut diamonds. Rather than forming a conventional halo, the diamonds build outward above and below the emerald, creating a layered, architectural composition. 

This ring is a wonderful example of how a setting can establish visual hierarchy. Despite the number of diamonds surrounding it, there is never any question about where the eye should land. The yellow-gold bezel isolates the emerald from the platinum surround, while the navette shape directs the eye vertically through the composition.

Appraised Value:  $8,300