Circa 1880 Holbeinesque Sapphire, Ruby, Diamond & Enamel Pendant Locket

Dating to circa 1880, this elaborate Victorian Holbeinesque pendant locket is crafted in 14KT gold and centered by an impressive 6.31-carat natural sapphire cabochon. A halo of 36 rose-cut diamonds surrounds the sapphire, creating a soft shimmer against its deep blue surface.

From that central composition unfolds an extraordinary framework of Renaissance-inspired ornament. Scrolling goldwork is picked out in vivid green, blue, black, and white enamel, punctuated by eight natural rubies in square, rectangular, and triangular settings. Eleven freshwater pearls provide luminous contrast.

Look closely, and the jewel becomes increasingly theatrical. Tiny sculpted human heads appear among the scrollwork, while pointed forms, curled ornament, geometric settings, and pearl drops radiate outward from the sapphire. Rather than allowing any single material to dominate, the jeweler uses gold, enamel, gemstones, and pearls 

Holbeinesque jewelry was part of the 19th-century Renaissance Revival, drawing inspiration from Renaissance ornament, particularly jewels depicted in portraits by Hans Holbein the Younger. Victorian jewelers translated that visual language into richly colored pieces characterized by prominent central gemstones, enamel, pearls, intricate goldwork, and symmetrical architectural compositions.

The name does not mean that Holbein designed the jewel. “Holbeinesque” describes a later Victorian revival style inspired by the Renaissance jewelry seen in his paintings. The Victorians were looking backward to the Renaissance, but producing something unmistakably Victorian in its exuberance.

Revival jewelry isn't a copy of the past. It is one generation's interpretation of another.

Appraised Value:  $19,200