Fabulous French Platinum Diamond Cocktail Ring

Dating to circa 1940, this French platinum ring features a 1.67-carat oval brilliant-cut diamond held in a four-prong setting. Graded VS1 clarity and L color, the center diamond is surrounded by twenty old European and transitional brilliant-cut diamonds totaling approximately 3.40 carats, with SI1-SI2 clarity and G-H color.

The composition is highly architectural. The design also uses contrast effectively. The warmer L color of the center diamond distinguishes it subtly from the G-H surrounding stones, while its oval shape interrupts the otherwise strongly rectilinear geometry. 

Circa 1940 sits at an important transition in jewelry design. The geometric precision and extensive use of platinum seen here are strongly rooted in Art Deco, while the date places the ring at the threshold of the Retro period. Jewelry styles rarely changed neatly with the calendar, and pieces made at these boundaries can preserve one period's design language while emerging as another takes hold.

With more than five carats of diamonds in total, this ring achieves its presence through elaborate ornamentation, but also through scale, geometry, repetition, and light.

Appraised Value:  $27,800