Victorian Ruby, Pearl & Diamond Bangle

Dating to circa 1880, this Victorian hinged bangle combines a 14KT yellow gold bracelet with an elaborate 18KT yellow gold domed gallery set with natural pearls, rubies, and rose-cut diamonds.

At the center, five half-round natural pearls form a cross-like arrangement around a larger pearl, while four tapered cushion mixed-cut natural rubies fill the spaces between them. Eight small rose-cut diamonds provide delicate points of light around the perimeter. The rubies total approximately .80 carats and display a purplish-red hue; the diamonds total approximately .12 carats, with SI1-SI2 clarity and H-I color.

The composition is particularly successful because it layers shape and texture. The smooth pearls provide luminous, rounded forms; the tapered rubies point inward toward the center; and the tiny rose-cut diamonds catch light at the outer edges. Ropework frames the central composition, while a border of polished gold granulation emphasizes the circular gallery. 

Victorian jewelers frequently used contrasting gemstones not simply for color, but to create visual hierarchy. Here, the largest central pearl establishes the focal point; the surrounding pearls create symmetry; the tapered rubies direct the eye inward; and the rose-cut diamonds act almost as highlights.

Appraised Value:  $12,400