Circa 1870 Victorian Bohemian Garnet Bangle

Dating to circa 1870, this Victorian bangle is fashioned in garnet gold and set with three closely arranged rows of faceted garnets. The tightly fitted stones create an almost continuous field of deep wine-red color, flashing brighter crimson as their facets catch the light.

The design reflects the 19th-century Bohemian garnet tradition, in which numerous small garnets were set closely together so color and sparkle, rather than the surrounding metal, dominated the jewel. Bohemian garnet jewelry became enormously popular throughout Europe during the Victorian era.

Despite its name, “garnet gold” does not necessarily mean solid gold. The historical term was used for gold-colored metals and composites associated with Bohemian garnet jewelry, including tombac and gilt metals. These materials allowed jewelers to create elaborate settings densely covered with garnets, placing the visual emphasis exactly where they wanted it: on the stones.